Anubias Varieties: The Complete Guide to the Unkillable Aquarium Plant

If someone tells you they killed an Anubias, they are either lying or they buried the rhizome. Anubias is the cockroach of the aquatic plant world, and I mean that as the highest compliment. These West African rheophytes survive low light, no CO2, inconsistent fertilization, and the attention span of a distracted beginner. They have been growing in aquariums since before aquascaping was a word, and they will be growing in aquariums long after whatever trendy stem plant you are obsessing over has melted into compost.

Anubias Basics

All Anubias share these characteristics:

Epiphytes: They grow attached to hardscape (rocks and wood), not planted in substrate. Their rhizome, the thick horizontal stem, must sit above the substrate surface.
Slow growers: One new leaf every 1 to 3 weeks. Painfully slow, but each leaf is thick, durable, and lasts for months.
Low light champions: Anubias thrives in 15 to 40 PAR. High light does not make it grow faster, it just encourages algae on the slow-growing leaves.
No CO2 needed: Grows perfectly well without CO2 injection. CO2 speeds growth slightly but the difference is marginal.
Flower underwater: Anubias regularly produces small white spadix flowers while fully submerged. It is one of the few aquarium plants that flowers reliably underwater.

Anubias varieties guide: practical guide overview — Anubias varieties guide

The rhizome rule: Never bury the Anubias rhizome in substrate. The rhizome is the thick, woody stem from which leaves and roots emerge. If buried, it rots and the plant dies. This is the one way to kill Anubias. Attach it to hardscape or lay it on top of the substrate with roots extending downward.

Small Varieties (Nano Tanks and Foreground)

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Anubias nana 'Petite'

The miniature version of nana with leaves barely half an inch long. Petite is the smallest commonly available Anubias and is prized for nano tanks where full-size nana looks disproportionately large. Growth is extremely slow, a cluster of petite takes a year to become impressive. But the result is a dense, dark green mat on hardscape that looks like it has been there forever.

Anubias nana

The classic. Rounded, dark green leaves about 1 to 2 inches wide on a compact plant. Nana is the default Anubias for most aquascapers, it fits any tank size, attaches easily to hardscape, and produces a steady stream of perfect little leaves that make any piece of wood or rock look like it belongs in a jungle stream.

Anubias varieties guide: step-by-step visual example — Anubias varieties guide

Anubias nana 'Golden'

A color variant with lime-green to yellowish-green leaves. New leaves emerge bright yellow-green and darken slightly as they age. Golden nana provides a welcome color contrast when planted alongside the standard dark green variety. Same care, same growth rate, different visual impact.

Attaching small Anubias: Super glue (cyanoacrylate gel) is the fastest way to attach Anubias nana and petite to hardscape. Apply a drop to dry rock or wood, press the rhizome into it for 30 seconds. The glue cures in water and is aquarium-safe. For a more natural look, wedge small Anubias into crevices in rocks, the roots will anchor permanently within weeks.

Medium Varieties (Midground)

Anubias barteri

Larger than nana with heart-shaped leaves reaching 3 to 5 inches. Barteri is the standard midground Anubias, visible enough to make a statement, compact enough not to overwhelm most layouts. The leaves are thicker and more leathery than nana, with prominent veining that catches light beautifully.

Anubias barteri 'Coffeefolia'

Named for its leaves that resemble coffee plant foliage, deeply ribbed with a corrugated texture and reddish-brown new growth that darkens to deep green. Coffeefolia is one of the most visually interesting Anubias varieties. The textured leaves add a dimensional quality that smooth-leaved varieties cannot match.

Anubias barteri var. nana 'Narrow Leaf'

An elongated variant with narrower, more pointed leaves than standard nana. The slender leaf shape creates a different visual texture when mixed with round-leaved varieties. Used in midground placements where the narrow leaves complement broader-leaved companions.

Anubias varieties guide: helpful reference illustration — Anubias varieties guide

Algae magnet: Because Anubias grows slowly, its leaves are prime targets for algae colonization, particularly green spot algae (GSA) and black beard algae (BBA). Prevention is better than cure: keep light moderate (avoid high-PAR lights over Anubias), maintain stable CO2 if injecting, and stock nerite snails or amano shrimp to clean leaves biologically.

Large Varieties (Background and Statement Pieces)

Anubias barteri var. barteri

The full-size barteri grows leaves 6 to 10 inches long on a robust rhizome. In a large tank (55+ gallons), a mature specimen attached to a central piece of driftwood becomes a dramatic focal point. The dark green, leathery leaves create a lush tropical feel that cannot be replicated with any stem plant.

Anubias hastifolia

Arrow-shaped (hastate) leaves that are distinctly different from the rounded leaves of other varieties. Hastifolia grows large, leaves reaching 8 to 12 inches, and is used as a background plant in tanks where its unique leaf shape provides textural contrast. Less common in stores but available from specialty sellers.

Anubias gigantea

The largest Anubias available, with leaves exceeding 12 inches in optimal conditions. Gigantea is a statement plant for tanks 75 gallons and above. A single mature specimen attached to a large piece of driftwood creates a canopy effect, shading the plants below and creating zones of light and shadow that add depth to the aquascape.

Mixing varieties: The best Anubias aquascapes use multiple varieties on the same piece of hardscape. Petite on the tips of branches, nana on the main trunk, and barteri at the base creates a natural-looking gradation from small to large that mimics how plants colonize wood in nature. The variation in leaf size adds visual complexity without introducing additional species.

Propagation

Anubias propagates by rhizome division. When the rhizome has grown long enough to show multiple growing points (leaf clusters separated by bare rhizome), cut between them with a sharp, clean blade. Each piece needs at least 3 to 4 healthy leaves and some roots to thrive independently. Attach the new piece to hardscape and it continues growing as if nothing happened.

Anubias varieties guide: detailed close-up view — Anubias varieties guide

Common Issues

Yellow Leaves

Old Anubias leaves naturally yellow and die, this is normal lifecycle, not a problem. If new leaves are yellow, check for iron deficiency or buried rhizome.

Holes in Leaves

Potassium deficiency. Dose a potassium supplement (Seachem Flourish Potassium) weekly. Holes appear in older leaves first as the plant redirects limited potassium to new growth.

Mushy Rhizome

The rhizome is rotting, usually because it was buried in substrate. Remove the plant, cut away all mushy sections with a clean blade until you reach firm, healthy rhizome. Reattach to hardscape above the substrate. If caught early, the plant recovers.

Plan your Anubias layout based on tank dimensions. Our tank size calculator helps you select the right Anubias variety for your tank's scale, petite for nanos, barteri for mid-size, gigantea for the big tanks.